Bell can vividly remember his mom’s traditional dish when he closes his eyes. “They’re going to be flavorful,” he remarked. “They are definitely going to be served over white rice.” The chef of the renowned global soul food restaurant “Oreatha’s At The Point” in Atlanta shared that the beans were a significant part of his family’s New Year’s celebrations while growing up in Chicago. “Black-eyed peas are considered to symbolize coins and bring good luck,” Bell explained. “Our tradition involves welcoming the New Year in a grand manner, hoping to carry that prosperity into the upcoming year.”
Soul food historian and James Beard award-winning author Adrian Miller has been enjoying black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day since childhood. “Black-eyed peas symbolize coins, while greens symbolize money,” Miller explained. “Despite growing up in the suburbs of Denver with roots in Tennessee and Arkansas, my family continues to observe this tradition. However, after over 50 years of following this tradition, the results in terms of prosperity have been mixed,” Miller reflected.
The New Year’s food tradition has deep roots across various cultures, with special foods being consumed on auspicious occasions such as New Year’s Day in different parts of the world. Miller emphasized the importance of carrying on these culinary traditions that date back centuries to foster a sense of connection and continuity with the past.
While some view the tradition as a way to honor ancestors rather than solely seeking future wealth, the historical significance of black-eyed peas traces back to darker times. Enslaved Africans were often fed black-eyed peas during their journey on slave ships, with dishes like Hoppin’ John becoming staples in Southern cuisine to mark the new year.
The National Museum of African American History and Culture suggests that celebrations on Dec. 31, 1862, known as Watch Night or “Freedom’s Eve,” played a pivotal role in the tradition. African Americans eagerly awaited midnight for the Emancipation Proclamation to come into effect, with religious services and meals featuring collard greens and Hoppin’ John following the occasion.
Chef Sheri L. Raleigh’s research for her cookbook uncovered the role of black-eyed peas in providing sustenance and income during the Civil War, referring to them as emancipation food. She believes that the New Year’s tradition is a way of paying homage to ancestors for their enduring struggles and resilience.
The tradition of eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day is deeply rooted in diverse cultures across the Americas. Chef Sheri L. Raleigh, in her research, delved into the evolution of this tradition as it spread and adapted among different communities. She highlighted the significance of cooking in preserving cultural heritage and connecting people through shared experiences.
Raleigh emphasized the need for adaptation among African Americans who settled in various regions of the United States, modifying recipes based on the indigenous ingredients available. This culinary evolution tells a compelling story of resilience and cultural fusion. Raleigh underscored the unifying power of following traditional recipes, which serve as a link to one’s heritage and showcase the similarities among people.
The consumption of black-eyed peas for New Year’s is widespread, with the tradition symbolizing prosperity and good luck in different cultures. Raleigh’s research uncovered how black-eyed peas also played a role in empowering women in northern Brazil, linking back to the historical legacy of enslaved West Africans forcibly brought across the Atlantic Ocean.
Raleigh shared insights from her exchanges with Sandra Rocha Evanoff, who hails from Bahia, Brazil, and now resides near Seattle. Evanoff, maintaining ties to her cultural roots, incorporates lentils for luck on New Year’s while considering black-eyed peas as part of her cultural inheritance. The exchange of recipes and stories between Raleigh and Evanoff underscores the importance of food in connecting people across diverse backgrounds.
A notable dish with roots in West Africa, the Acarajé fritter made from black-eyed peas, holds historical significance in Salvador, Bahia’s capital. Street vendors, predominantly enslaved women, sold Acarajé to contribute towards buying their freedom, showcasing resilience and entrepreneurship in challenging circumstances. Evanoff highlighted the emancipatory role of Acarajé in the lives of enslaved women and its enduring cultural legacy in Brazil.
Raleigh’s personal connection to black-eyed peas transcends superstition, reflecting a deep-seated cultural practice ingrained in her culinary traditions. The broader discussion among culinary experts like Adrian Miller and Chef Christian Bell highlights the varied customs surrounding the consumption of black-eyed peas on New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day. The flexibility in observing this tradition underscores the diverse cultural interpretations and personal significance attached to the ritual.
In a multicultural context, the tradition of eating black-eyed peas symbolizes more than just a culinary custom; it embodies shared histories, resilience, and the enduring legacy of cultural exchange. Through culinary practices and traditions, individuals like Raleigh and Evanoff find common ground, bridging geographical and cultural distances to celebrate their shared heritage and culinary diversity.
