Unlock the Mystery of Two Timeless Spirits
Vermouth is an essential ingredient in cocktails. It elevates a Martini from just vodka to a complex blend, and transforms a Manhattan from mere whiskey to a sophisticated drink. It acts as a bittersweet connector between the gin and Campari in a Negroni. However, vermouth is often misunderstood. Despite the recommendation to keep it chilled once opened, it is frequently neglected in the drinks cabinet, becoming stale.
The treatment of vermouth over the years is not entirely the fault of the public. For centuries, the addition of aromatic flavors to wine, as seen in vermouth production, served to cover up imperfections. Using these flavors to enhance character is a more recent concept, originating in the late 1700s in Italy for sweet vermouth and the early 1800s in France for dry white vermouth. The introduction of Italy’s Vermouth di Torino IGP marks a new chapter in raising vermouth’s profile as the world’s first protected designation for this fortified, aromatized wine.
To craft vermouth, producers fortify a base wine with neutral spirit, reaching an alcohol content of around 14-22% ABV. The wine is infused with aromatic botanicals, often with proprietary recipes featuring a multitude of ingredients such as citrus peel, herbs, flowers, and spices. Wormwood, a herb also found in absinthe, has historically been a key botanical in vermouth, giving it its name derived from the German “wermut” or the French “vermouth.”
While white wine typically serves as the base for vermouth, the addition of various botanicals can result in red “sweet” vermouth or a drier white variation. There are also semi-dry options like vermouth bianco or blanc, and a less common rosé variety.
Vermouth di Torino has a rich history and upholds stringent standards. Originating in Turin, it was first created by Antonio Benedetto Carpano in 1786, using high-quality ingredients to produce the inaugural commercial sweet vermouth. The drink gained popularity, with King Vittorio Amedeo III of Sardinia embracing it as a royal beverage. Although its use declined over time, the resurgence of vintage cocktails has brought quality vermouth back into the spotlight.
In modern times, vermouth is experiencing a revival in Turin, thanks to classic cocktails like the Americano and Negroni, as well as a resurgence of neat or on-the-rocks consumption. With the official recognition of Vermouth di Torino IGP by the European Union in 2019, the brand 9diDante’s producer, Alex Ouziel, notes the significance of this designation in shaping the future of vermouth production.
In the Piedmont region of Italy, the quality of vermouth is closely tied to the terroir. To be classified as Vermouth di Torino, at least three-quarters of the wine used must be Italian, and the wormwood herb must be sourced from Piemonte. For the premium category of Vermouth di Torino Superiore, half of the wine and all botanical ingredients must come from Piemonte. Some producers, like 9diDante, take it a step further by using only Piemonte DOC wines and sourcing all 27 botanicals from the area near Alba in Piemonte.
French vermouths can be delicate, Spanish vermouths have not established IGP-like standards, and American craft vermouths can be unconventional for classic cocktails. Vermouth di Torino stands out for its versatility and reliability in both sipping and mixing. This makes it a popular choice for home use, favored by experts like Alec Kassman, the beverage director at New York City’s Rosevale Cocktail Room. Kassman recommends Alessio Rosso Vermouth di Torino for its intense bitterness and complex flavors, as well as Oscar 697 Bianco Vermouth di Torino for its muscat grape base and elderflower infusion.
The IGP designation has attracted vermouth enthusiasts from across Europe to produce vermouth in Piemonte. Examples include Cucielo Vermouth di Torino by Scottish creator Andy Holmes, known for its unique flavor profiles, and 9diDante by Alex Ouziel, inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Pio Cesare Rosso Vermouth di Torino, made by the renowned Barolo-producing Pio Cesare family, is celebrated for its rich texture and balanced flavors. Winemaker Federica Boffa has revived an original 1880s label for the vermouth, showcasing the region’s evolution in vermouth production.
These Piemontese vermouths offer a delightful range of flavors that can be enjoyed on their own or in cocktails, providing a unique taste experience that enthusiasts and connoisseurs appreciate.
Yes, “that you could serve it for breakfast.” Read the original article on Food & Wine.
