Fashion Rebellion at Milan Fashion Week
In a bold stand against the traditional confines of luxury fashion, Simon Cracker, an independent Italian brand, unveiled an upcycled collection during Milan Fashion Week that challenged the norms of quality and creativity in the industry. The collection, showcased on Sunday, breathed new life into recovered and deadstock garments, materials, and accessories, offering a fresh perspective on what the designers perceive as a bygone era of innovation.
Dubbed a playful rebellion, the co-ed looks featured tongue-in-cheek references to iconic luxury items, such as a witty nod to Hermes’ renowned Birken bag. The designers cleverly incorporated tell-tale hardware onto leather bags and screen-printed images of the coveted accessory onto cozy sweaters. Co-creative directors Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi found inspiration in the release of a Birken knock-off by Walmart, further fueling their motivation to challenge the status quo of the fashion industry.
In a candid statement, Biraghi expressed disillusionment with the current state of fashion, remarking, “People have lost interest in fashion. They have been taken for a ride for 20 years. And with 50 wars in the world, climate change, we all are getting poorer. There is no longer a connection between price and value. At a certain point, you can’t go on.”
The collection’s standout pieces playfully mock the archetypal Milanese signora, known locally as sciura, through funky tweed separates, chic foulards, and even whimsical details like a tiny dog accessory. Each silhouette is a testament to the brand’s sustainable ethos, crafted from carefully sourced garments obtained from dry cleaners and other unconventional outlets. Models embodied the spirit of the collection with nonchalant poses and exaggerated catwalk strides, adding a touch of irreverence to the runway.
A notable collaboration with Doc Martens saw the iconic boots adorned with trompe l’oeil ballerina shoe motifs, showcasing the brand’s penchant for blending high fashion with unexpected elements. Skirts, collars, and decorative fringe made from shiny tinsel packing material added a touch of whimsy, while ribbons transformed plain shoes into statement pieces.
As the show drew to a close, a garment entirely covered in luxury tags from Biraghi’s personal collection served as a poignant critique of excess and materialism. “We are making fun of wealth,” Biraghi remarked, highlighting the brand’s commitment to challenging conventional notions of luxury and status.
The Simon Cracker runway presentation comes at a pivotal moment for the luxury sector, which is experiencing a downturn in the wake of economic challenges and a lack of innovative breakthroughs. A recent study by McKinsey consultancy and The Business of Fashion revealed that top brands are facing a significant slowdown after years of steady growth driven primarily by price increases rather than true innovation.
Bain consultancy has forecasted a contraction in the luxury market for the first time since the Great Recession, attributing the
