**Breaking Barriers in Milan Fashion Week: Simon Cracker’s Upcycled Collection Takes Aim at Luxury Fashion Norms**
Milan, Italy – In a bold move that sent shockwaves through the world of high fashion, independent Italian brand Simon Cracker unveiled its latest collection during Milan Fashion Week, challenging the very foundations of the luxury fashion system. The co-ed collection, showcased on Sunday, stunned audiences with its innovative use of upcycled materials and irreverent take on traditional luxury.
Drawing inspiration from a bygone era of quality and creativity, co-creative directors Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi turned heads with their unique approach to design. The collection, crafted from recovered and deadstock garments, featured a playful nod to iconic luxury items, including a cheeky interpretation of Hermes’ coveted Birken bag. By incorporating tell-tale hardware on leather bags and screen-printing images of the Birken bag on sweaters, Simon Cracker took a satirical swipe at the traditional notions of luxury.
Amidst a backdrop of global turmoil and a growing disconnect between price and value in the fashion industry, Botte and Biraghi highlighted the need for change. “People have lost interest in fashion,” Biraghi lamented. “They have been taken for a ride for 20 years. And with 50 wars in the world, climate change, we all are getting poorer. There is no longer a connection between price and value. At a certain point, you can’t go on.”
The collection’s hallmarks included whimsical takes on Milanese fashion, with funky tweed separates and nods to the iconic “sciura” character. Each silhouette was a work of art, constructed from garments sourced from dry cleaners and other unconventional outlets. Models embodied a sense of nonchalant sophistication, exuding confidence with each exaggerated catwalk stride.
Collaborating with Doc Martens, Simon Cracker pushed the boundaries of design by adorning the iconic boots with trompe l’oeil ballerina shoes. Skirts, collars, and decorative fringe were cleverly fashioned from tinsel packing material, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection. The show reached its climax with a garment entirely concealed by luxury tags from Biraghi’s personal wardrobe, a playful jab at the culture of excess wealth.
The runway critique by Simon Cracker comes at a time when the luxury sector is facing unprecedented challenges. A recent study by McKinsey consultancy and The Business of Fashion revealed a significant slowdown in the industry, following a period of exceptional growth from 2019-2023. The report attributed much of this growth to price increases rather than innovation, signaling a need for reform within the sector.
Looking ahead, industry analysts predict a contraction in luxury sales for the first time since the Great Recession. The crisis in creativity, coupled with global instability, has cast a shadow over the future of luxury fashion. For Botte and Biraghi, these findings validate their
