Hawaii’s northern beaches are bracing for dangerous surf conditions as waves up to 65 feet high are predicted to pound the shores, coinciding with the Christmas week break. Winter-weary travelers seeking sun and warm beach weather may be in for a surprise as a series of storm-force winds, some reaching hurricane-force, sweep across the Pacific Ocean.
Although the storm tracks are expected to remain about 1,300 miles north of Hawaii, the deep low pressure centers and fierce winds generated by these systems are producing massive waves that are making their way towards the islands. According to the National Weather Service, satellite data shows seas as high as 65 feet near the centers of these storms, with a nearby buoy recording 60-foot waves.
Forecast models suggest that this wave activity will propagate southwards, impacting the north-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, and Maui over the upcoming weekend. Wave heights are projected to range from 30 to 50 feet, with a High Surf Warning in effect until Monday morning.
Even the west-facing shores of these islands are anticipated to experience significant surf, with wave heights reaching 25 to 35 feet. On the Big Island, seas are expected to be around 8 to 12 feet. The National Weather Service has cautioned that this prolonged period of intense wave action could lead to coastal impacts, including substantial beach erosion and potential overwash onto vulnerable coastal areas and roadways, particularly during the peak conditions on Sunday.
Coastal properties and infrastructure are at risk of being affected by surging ocean waters, which may sweep across beaches, coastal benches, and lava flows. Longshore and rip currents are expected to be prevalent, heightening the dangers of swimming at most beaches.
The surf is forecasted to diminish by Monday, returning to advisory levels by Christmas Eve. However, the Pacific storm activity is expected to remain active throughout the week, maintaining a level of caution for coastal communities and travelers in the region.
