Uncover a Enigmatic Lenten Custom in Louisiana
Glenn Murphree’s restaurant journey almost came to an abrupt halt on the very first night. He was reprimanded for the way he was peeling an onion. “All my buddies were at the Mardi Gras parade, so I thought, ‘You know what? I quit.’ And like a rebellious youngster, I stuck my knife into the table,” recalls Murphree, who was just 14 at the time. “I distinctly remember telling myself, ‘I’m not sure what path I’ll take in life, but I know for sure it won’t involve working in a restaurant or a po’boy shop.’ It’s funny how life turns out, because that’s exactly what I ended up doing for a living.”
Courtesy of Glenn Murphee Glenn Murphree and his wife, Cheri, pose with their daughter Becca circa 1988
Over 40 years ago, on his 23rd birthday, Murphree purchased Olde Tyme Grocery in Lafayette, Louisiana. The establishment came equipped with rows of canned goods, five shopping carts, and oodles of charm. Those carts have long been replaced by Zapp’s potato chips and New Orleans-style po’boys, and the aura of the restaurant is distinctly Murphree’s. License plates, children’s drawings, and vintage photographs line the wood-paneled walls in orderly but slightly crooked fashion. Above the rear counter, you’ll find Ragin’ Cajuns football jerseys alongside a crucifix.
Cedric Angeles Related: Lafayette, Louisiana: Where Crawfish Is King
The Reason for Crawfish Po’Boys During Lent
Lunchtime at Olde Tyme Grocery is always bustling, but the pace quickens significantly on Lenten Fridays, the period of 40 days leading up to Easter. “In Lafayette, many people are Catholic,” notes Murphree’s daughter Becca Kennedy, who works at the restaurant alongside her father and two of her siblings. “During Lent, Catholics opt for seafood [instead of meat] on Fridays.”
Cedric Angeles All five of the couple’s children have worked at the restaurant (from left: Glenn, Lauren, Cheri, Becca, Gregory, and Ross; Brad not pictured)
During this season, they prepare approximately 1,000 pounds of seafood—shrimp, oysters, catfish, and crawfish—each Friday. While shrimp reigns as the perennial bestseller, crawfish is the coveted specialty, featured exclusively during Lent.
Cedric Angeles
The eagerly anticipated fried crawfish po’boy made its debut on the menu over three decades ago, suggested by Murphree’s local bread supplier, Bobby Langlinais. Perfecting the dish took time. “I spent at least 25 to 30 hours experimenting with different batters, trying various methods,” recollects Murphree. Once he settled on a recipe
“Oh, it’s good chaos!” exclaimed Kennedy. Those who make it through all seven Fridays will receive prestigious rewards: everlasting bragging rights and a special commemorative T-shirt. “You can’t just buy one,” Murphree emphasized. “I wouldn’t even give a shirt to my own mom or sister-in-law. It’s something you have to truly earn.” Read the full article in Southern Living.
