Despite its initial off-putting nature, marzu boasts a robust flavor that evokes memories of Mediterranean pastures, with a spicy kick and a lingering aftertaste that can last for hours. Some even claim it holds aphrodisiac properties. However, concerns have been raised about potential health risks, as maggots could survive consumption and lead to myiasis, small intestinal perforations. Despite these worries, there have been no reported cases linking casu marzu to such issues. While the cheese is prohibited for commercial sale, Sardinians have been enjoying it for centuries, with some embracing the unique experience of consuming the wriggling larvae.
Renowned Sardinian gastronome Paolo Solinas describes the maggot infestation as the charm and allure of this cheese. While some locals may shy away from casu marzu, others, raised on a diet of salty pecorino, unapologetically relish its bold flavors. Solinas notes that for certain shepherds, the cheese is seen as a personal indulgence reserved for a select few.
Although casu marzu is not legally available for purchase, it is still possible to encounter this delicacy in Sardinia. Rather than a mere curiosity, it should be viewed as a tradition that preserves ancient culinary practices and offers a glimpse into the future of food consumption.
Giovanni Fancello, a Sardinian journalist and food enthusiast, has dedicated his life to exploring the region’s culinary heritage, tracing it back to the time when Sardinia was under Roman rule. He emphasizes that Sardinian cuisine has deep roots, with influences evident in the local dialect and ancient cooking methods.
While casu marzu is produced during specific times of the year when the sheep’s milk is at its prime, it remains a significant part of Sardinian gastronomy. With various names like casu becciu, casu fattittu, hasu muhidu, and formaggio marcio, each sub-region of the island has its unique technique for crafting this peculiar cheese using different types of milk.
Food enthusiasts, inspired by celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay, often seek out casu marzu, intrigued by its historical significance. Fancello explains that the cheese is deeply ingrained in Sardinian culture, embodying a blend of chance, magic, and supernatural elements. For Fancello, who grew up in a town where his father crafted casu marzu, the cheese was considered a divine offering, with its infestation by maggots seen as a sign of quality.
In conclusion, casu marzu stands as a testament to Sardinia’s rich culinary history, embodying tradition, innovation, and a touch of mystique.
The transformation of local sheep milk typically occurs towards the end of June, coinciding with the animals entering their reproductive phase and the grass drying from the summer heat. This phenomenon is particularly observed in the coastal town of Alghero in Sardinia, where the magic of cheese-making takes on a whole new dimension when a warm sirocco wind blows, intensifying the cheese-transforming process. According to Fancello, this wind enhances the process due to the cheese having a weaker structure, which facilitates the work of the flies involved in the fermentation.
After approximately three months of meticulous care and monitoring, the delicacy known as casu marzu is finally ready for consumption. Mario Murrocu plays a pivotal role in keeping the ancient casu marzu traditions alive at his farm, Agriturismo Sa Mandra, located near Alghero in northern Sardinia. Apart from tending to his 300 sheep, Murrocu also warmly welcomes guests to his trattoria, offering them an authentic taste of Sardinian cuisine.
Murrocu emphasizes the importance of recognizing when a cheese wheel is on the verge of transformation into casu marzu, pointing out the telltale signs such as an unusual spongy texture in the paste. In today’s context, the successful production of casu marzu is no longer left to chance, as modern cheesemakers have honed their techniques to create ideal conditions for maximizing the yield of this unique cheese. Additionally, they have developed innovative methods, such as using glass jars for preservation, extending the cheese’s shelf life far beyond the traditional limit of September.
Originating from Roman times, Sardinia’s distinctive casu marzu cheese carries a rich historical legacy. Despite its revered status as a traditional product of Sardinia, the legal standing of casu marzu remains ambiguous. Officially declared illegal by the Italian government since 1962 due to regulations prohibiting the consumption of parasite-infected food, those involved in selling this cheese risk facing substantial fines reaching into the thousands of euros. However, Sardinians maintain a sense of humor when confronted with the prohibition of their cherished delicacy.
In recent years, the European Union has embarked on researching and promoting the consumption of insects, including the grubs found in casu marzu, under the innovative concept of novel food. Studies suggest that embracing insect consumption could potentially mitigate carbon dioxide emissions associated with conventional animal farming practices, offering a sustainable solution to the pressing climate crisis.
Editor’s Note: This story was originally published in 2021. For more CNN news and newsletters, please create an account at CNN.com.
