Every Friday evening, farmers from Greensboro, Vermont gather at Tom Hill’s barn to assist with the milking session. As they work and socialize, the tight-knit community reflects on their shared experiences in farming. This tradition has become a precious bond, especially amidst the challenges faced by rural farms over the years.
Collaboration with cheesemakers Mateo and Andy Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm has been instrumental in sustaining the local agricultural community. Paying above-market rates for milk and sourcing only from nearby suppliers, the Kehlers have revitalized the local economy and supported farmers in the area. The success of this model is evident, with a significant portion of profits remaining within Vermont and specifically benefiting Greensboro farmers.
Tom Hill and others have found stability and support through their partnership with Jasper Hill. Some, like Chet and Renee Baker, have even relocated to Greensboro to work with the Kehlers, recognizing the value of a fair price for their milk. The impact of this collaboration extends beyond economics, fostering a sense of community and mutual support among farmers.
Inspired by their love for Greensboro and a desire for a more purposeful life, Mateo and Andy Kehler made a bold decision to invest in the region in the late 1990s. Despite challenges such as rising land prices and tech industry influx, they were determined to create a sustainable farming community. Their commitment to keeping profits local and preserving the heritage of Greensboro has not only benefited farmers but also enriched the social fabric of the area.
The rugged landscape around him, shaped by generations of farming, was at risk of disappearing. Determined to make a change, the brothers set out to establish a business that would not only bring in profits but also embody a purpose-driven life at its core. “Jasper Hill was born from the idea that a fulfilling life revolves around three essential elements: engaging work in a beloved place with cherished companions,” explains Mateo. “We recognized the need to capture and preserve more value, taking charge of pricing to secure our future in the market.” Cheese, a valuable product derived from dairy, seemed like the perfect fit.
Today, Jasper Hill Farm is renowned for its handcrafted cheeses, some crafted with organic milk. The Kehler brothers also constructed a massive underground cave-aging facility spanning 22,000 square feet, not just for their own cheeses but also for products from local creameries like Cabot Creamery, solidifying community bonds.
In a conversation held in late May, while the commodity market price for Class III Milk stood at $18.55 per hundredweight (equivalent to 11.63 gallons), the Kehlers were compensating the five farms they collaborated with at $31 per hundredweight—nearly double the commodity price. This ability to pay a higher rate stems from selling premium cheeses. Mateo notes, “We’re establishing connections with markets where there’s disposable income.” Interestingly, some of Jasper Hill’s loyal customers are those who displaced longtime farmers in Greensboro, yet their contributions now support the community. By selling artisanal cheeses directly to specialty retailers and consumers willing to pay premium prices, Jasper Hill managed to circumvent the global commodity market.
To quantify the portion of revenue that remains within the community, Andy Kehler meticulously tracks the creamery’s yearly expenditures by ZIP code. By compiling all invoices into an Excel spreadsheet and mapping the ZIP codes alongside invoice amounts on a Vermont map, he gains insight into where Jasper Hill’s payments are dispersed. Last year, 82 cents of every dollar spent at Jasper Hill remained in Vermont, with 62 cents directly supporting Greensboro farmers and local businesses.
Ultimately, Mateo emphasizes that commodity cheese, much like commodity milk, is undervalued. Jasper Hill sets a premium price for their meticulously crafted cheeses, redistributing the margin to the community by paying higher rates for milk. “We strive to strike a balance in the value we derive from the market,” adds Mateo.
The story of Jasper Hill is a beacon of hope amidst the challenges faced by dairy farmers in Greensboro and nationwide. These struggles trace back to the 1970s, largely influenced by the policies and directives of Earl Butz, who served as Secretary of Agriculture during President Richard Nixon’s tenure. Butz’s infamous stance in 1973, urging farmers to “Get big or get out,” spurred agricultural consolidation and industrialization, leading to a steady decline in the number of farms in the U.S.
Prior to this shift, from 193
Successive administrations, both Democratic and Republican, have either expanded upon or upheld various New Deal initiatives. Truman’s Fair Deal adhered to New Deal principles, Eisenhower bolstered and broadened programs such as Social Security, and Johnson’s Great Society further extended New Deal concepts. The impact of Butz’s policies is still felt in American agriculture to this day. Recent data from the 2022 Census of Agriculture reveals a notable trend of consolidation within the U.S. dairy industry. The number of dairy farms authorized to sell milk has decreased by nearly 39% over a five-year period, plummeting to 24,082 farms. In 2020, more than 2,500 U.S. dairy farms, accounting for approximately 7% of all dairy operations in the nation, were compelled to halt operations. Without a shift back to pre-Butz policies reminiscent of the New Deal, revitalizing small-scale farming in the U.S. appears unlikely. However, Canada, situated just 87 miles north of Greensboro, may offer a promising model. Under Canada’s supply management system, dairy farmers can secure their livelihoods and pass down their farms to future generations. The success of paying farmers fairly is exemplified by Jasper Hill, albeit on a localized level. Renee and Chet Baker, owners of Hillside Homestead Dairy Farm, epitomize the type of farmers supported by Jasper Hill. Upon recognizing the challenges of surviving in the global commodity market, the Bakers shifted their operations to Greensboro and partnered with Jasper Hill Farm in 2021. This alliance proved crucial for their farm’s sustainability, as the higher milk prices from Jasper Hill not only enhanced profitability but also facilitated access to loans for expanding their farm. Amid the pandemic, Jasper Hill’s innovative transition to mail-order cheese sales expanded their customer base, enabling the Bakers to surpass their initial milk sales projections. The stability provided by Jasper Hill’s premium milk prices has shielded Hillside Homestead from the volatility of the global commodity market. While uncertainties persist in supply and demand dynamics within their partnership, the Bakers now have a more stable financial foundation. This story was created in collaboration with the Economic Hardship Reporting Project, Civil Eats, and Stacker.
