This year, my parents surprised me by announcing that they wouldn’t be putting up a Christmas tree. Our traditional annual dinner was going to be held at my brother’s house in the picturesque hills of Maryland, and my dad felt that setting up the artificial tree they had since the early ’90s was unnecessary. In an attempt to maintain the Christmas spirit, I decided to protest by gifting them a small live potted spruce tree. I decorated the mini tree with fairy lights and tiny partridges, hoping to keep the tradition alive for my 41st Christmas.
Despite my enthusiasm, my parents, now in their 80s, seemed uninterested as they sat watching TV, moving at a slower pace and eliminating what they considered frivolous activities. Meanwhile, I found myself bustling around, carrying on familiar holiday traditions and cherishing the memories close to my heart.
As my parents age, the responsibility of upholding our family Christmas traditions falls more on me and my siblings. We bake the honey-glazed ham, decorate the tree, and gather for our post-midnight-mass gift exchange while sipping on homemade cremas, a beloved Haitian drink enjoyed on special occasions. For us, Christmas wouldn’t be complete without it.
Cremas, also known as kremas or crémasse, is a rich rum-based drink featuring coconut, condensed milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, nutmeg, and star anise. While some prefer sugarcane-based rums like Rhum Barbancourt for cremas, others opt for grain alcohol, overproof Jamaican rums, or clairin, a Haitian sugarcane-based spirit.
The origins of cremas are not entirely clear, but its ingredients are undeniably Haitian. Cinnamon, nutmeg, and star anise are commonly found in Haitian cuisine, while coconut and condensed milk are staples in Haitian desserts. Migration likely played a role in the drink’s evolution, with various Caribbean cultures boasting their own versions, such as coquito in Puerto Rico, rum cream in Jamaica, ron ponche in Panama, and crema de vie in Cuba.
While the exact history of cremas remains elusive, it has been a ubiquitous presence at Haitian celebrations for generations. Some attribute the preference for clairin in cremas to Haiti’s independence, as clairin’s production methods have persisted since ancient times, resisting European influences that sought to eradicate traditional practices. Additionally, the dark history of rum’s role in slavery may have steered Haitian recipes towards alternative spirits like clairin.
To truly uncover the origins of cremas, one might need to delve into the heart of Haiti and engage with local traditions and storytellers. The drink’s enduring presence in Haitian culture serves as a testament to its rich history and significance in festive gatherings.
The popularity of clairin, a traditional Haitian rum, is on the rise, particularly during the holiday season when it is often enjoyed as a festive drink with family and friends. However, obtaining clairin outside of Haiti can be challenging, with limited availability in local liquor stores. Fabya Lauture, a Maryland resident and producer of small batches of cremas, a popular Haitian holiday drink, reminisces about the tradition of enjoying homemade cremas with her family in Petion-Ville, Haiti.
Fabya’s family recipe for cremas includes the addition of ginger syrup, giving the drink a unique and spicy flavor profile. The process of making cremas involves a variety of ingredients and methods, with some variations incorporating spices, coconut, and fruit flavors like pineapple, guava, and cherry. Each family or producer adds their own twist to the classic recipe, such as using overproof rum or experimenting with different flavors like chocolate almond, coffee, and pumpkin spice.
Absalon, another cremas maker, emphasizes the importance of preserving Haitian culinary traditions while also advocating for innovation and creativity in the preparation of cultural dishes. She believes that traditional recipes can be adapted and expanded upon to create new and exciting flavor combinations, challenging the notion that Haitian cuisine must remain static.
For Loree Lamour, the tradition of making cremas is a way to honor her family’s heritage and remember loved ones who have passed. By continuing the practice of making cremas each year, Loree feels connected to her grandmother and the memories of shared meals and celebrations from her childhood. The ritual of enjoying cremas during the holidays serves as a reminder of family bonds and cultural identity, keeping traditions alive and fostering a sense of closeness among relatives.
While some may view cremas as a seasonal treat reserved for special occasions, Absalon believes that it should be enjoyed year-round, much like the traditional Haitian soup joumou. By incorporating cremas into their regular routine, individuals can maintain a connection to their cultural roots and celebrate the flavors and aromas that evoke cherished memories of family gatherings and festive occasions.
In a world where culinary traditions are constantly evolving, the preservation of cultural recipes like cremas serves as a link to the past and a source of comfort and joy for those who prepare and share these dishes. As Haitians embrace the rich culinary heritage of their ancestors, they are also embracing the opportunity to explore new interpretations of traditional recipes, creating a vibrant and dynamic food culture that honors the past while looking towards the future.
