Community Relocates from Sinking Island in Panama

Delfino Davies remains hopeful as his isolated community faces the challenge of relocating from the submerged island of Gardi Sugdub in Panama. His unwavering smile is a symbol of resilience against the imminent threat of rising sea levels due to climate change.

Transitioning from the vibrant sounds of their island life to the silence of a museum, Delfino reflects on the changes that have befallen his community, the Guna people. The government’s decision to evacuate the island, deeming it at risk of being uninhabitable by 2050, led to the relocation of most residents to prefabricated houses on the mainland.

While the relocation has been recognized as a potential blueprint for other communities facing similar perils, it has left a rift within the Guna people. Families have been separated, homes deserted, and traditions threatened. Despite the allure of modern settlements, some, like Delfino, choose to remain rooted in their island heritage, fishing by the ocean and preserving their cultural essence.

The Guna’s history on Gardi Sugdub dates back centuries, as they sought refuge from external threats and cultivated their unique traditions. Now, as sea levels continue to rise, scientists predict the submersion of most, if not all, islands in the archipelago by the end of the century.

The island’s diminishing size, exacerbated by overcrowding and recurrent floods, prompted discussions of relocation over a decade ago. For Magdalena Martínez and others, the decision to leave was a response to the encroaching tides and deteriorating living conditions. With only essential belongings in hand, they embarked on a journey to a new settlement, leaving behind cherished memories on Gardi Sugdub.

As the Guna community adapts to their new reality, the echoes of their past resonate in their molas and cultural practices. The challenges faced by Gardi Sugdub serve as a stark reminder of the far-reaching impacts of climate change on vulnerable populations worldwide.

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Isberyala, weather permitting, can be reached in just 15 minutes by boat and a five-minute drive from Gardi Sugdub, yet it feels like a different world altogether. The streets are lined with identical white and yellow homes on tarmacked roads. Magdalena proudly shows off the “little house” where she resides with her 14-year-old granddaughter Bianca and their dog. Each home comes with a small plot of land behind it, a luxury not found on the island, where Magdalena dreams of growing yucca, tomatoes, bananas, mangoes, and pineapples.

Reflecting on the move, Magdalena shares the bittersweet feeling of leaving a familiar place behind, missing friends, familiar streets, and the proximity to the sea. Isberyala was funded with $15 million from the Panamanian government and the Inter-American Development Bank. The community’s leader, Tito López, waits in the traditional meeting house, emphasizing that while the houses have changed, their identity and culture remain intact.

The Guna tradition of placing the deceased in a hammock for a day before burial is preserved in Isberyala. The new school offers modern amenities, replacing the old cramped school on the island. While conditions have improved in Isberyala with a consistent power supply, there are challenges with water supply and healthcare services.

Yanisela Vallarino shares her experience of arranging transport back to the island for medical care due to the lack of healthcare facilities in Isberyala. The Panamanian authorities are working to address these issues, including the construction of a hospital stalled due to funding constraints.

Despite the improvements, residents like Yanisela still miss their island home. Erica Bower from Human Rights Watch commends the community for their resilience in the face of climate displacement, emphasizing the importance of learning from such cases. In the afternoons, school activities give way to sports, providing children like eight-year-old Jerson more space to play. Magdalena passes on her knowledge of sewing molas to her granddaughter, ensuring their unique traditions are preserved in their new home.

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