Iain Martin skis near the south-east crater during the most significant eruption on Etna in two decades.
Breathing became difficult as I navigated through thick clouds of sulfur dioxide at an elevation of 3,200m (10,499ft) on Sicily’s Mount Etna. Ski touring in such conditions was challenging, with the volcanic activity making it even harder to find the necessary oxygen.
Normally, mountain trips offer fresh air and stunning vistas, but as I made my way up Etna, I was enveloped in a haze of volcanic smog. Ahead of me lay the south-east crater, currently experiencing its most significant eruption in twenty years.
I had hoped to ski alongside the lava, inspired by viral social media posts, but finding skis suitable for the volcanic terrain proved to be a challenge. Despite the lack of a ban on skiing near the eruption, local rental shops were unwilling to lend equipment due to the damaging effects of the pumice debris.
Mirto, my guide and one of Sicily’s few UAIGM-certified guides, shared his experience of skiing near the eruption, showing me a striking photo of himself against a backdrop of molten rock. We decided to compromise and explore a ski touring route on the north side of the volcano from Piano Provenzana, Sicily’s only ski resort.
While Piano Provenzana offers limited lift-accessed skiing and is not popular among piste skiers, Sicilians have a longstanding love for the sport. Climate change has impacted the region’s ski offerings, with the closure of the Nicolosi resort in 2017 due to unreliable snow cover.
As we toured Etna Nord from the base station of Piano Provenzana, we discussed the threats facing the ski resorts, including the 2002 eruption that destroyed the ski lifts. Mirto highlighted the complex history of Etna’s volcanic activity, with over two hundred craters and a tumultuous past fifty years of eruptions.
Unexpectedly, Mount Etna boasts over two hundred craters, challenging the common perception of a single cone volcano that sporadically erupts. Recent eruptions, like the one obstructing skiing activities on the southern slope, can occur with minimal seismic precursors.
A Dream Come True
Skiing on Mount Etna had long been on my list of must-do experiences, and it was serendipitous that I found myself there during an active eruption. Opting for a train journey, I meticulously planned my itinerary with the help of Rail Europe’s route planner. By purchasing a five-day Interrail pass (£275), I was able to incorporate visits to Rome and Florence on my outbound and return trips respectively.
The highlight of my adventure was the unique train ferry ride from Villa San Giovanni in southern Italy to Sicily’s Messina. The train was divided into smaller sections, which were then transferred onto a ferry for a quick 20-minute voyage. Afterward, the two sections continued their journey to Palermo and Syracuse.
Was the arduous two-day travel to and from Sicily worth it? Absolutely. Despite the less-than-ideal snow conditions during my descent to Piano Provenzana, the journey offered a mix of experiences that I wouldn’t trade for anything. From the warm, slushy snow near the summit to the gritty hardpack further down, every turn brought a unique feeling. Even the ash-covered, spring-like snow lower on the mountain provided a memorable carving experience.
While skiing on Mount Etna won’t replace my traditional family ski vacations, the thrill of hearing the thunderous echoes emanating from the volcano’s rumbling craters was an unparalleled sensation.
Travel Essentials
Iain embarked on his Sicilian journey using an Interrail pass courtesy of Rail Europe (five flexible days starting at £275, including Eurostar crossing). Alternatively, flights from London Gatwick to Catania with easyJet are available from £120 round trip. During his stay, Iain lodged at Palazzo Previtera in Linguaglossa (double rooms starting at €140 or £117 per night). Ski guides can be arranged through guidetnanord starting at €400 per day.
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