Uncover the Mystery of Unique Cheeses Today
Just because a certain ingredient or dish may divide opinions doesn’t mean it’s not worth exploring. As a child, I wasn’t fond of mushrooms due to their slippery texture, but over time, learning to appreciate them has introduced me to new culinary experiences filled with savory goodness. From buttery mushroom pastas to crispy fried fungi, these versatile ingredients have become a staple in my life.
Among the misunderstood ingredients in the culinary world, stinky cheeses stand out. Taleggio, Limburger, Époisses, raclette, and Gruyère are all examples of this pungent category of dairy products. While their bold aromas may deter some at first, delving deeper reveals complex, delicious, and often subtle flavors beneath the surface.
A recent episode of the podcast Pizza Quest featured a discussion with Mark Todd, a cheese expert known as “the cheese dude,” shedding light on the intriguing production process and history of stinky cheeses. With a wealth of experience consulting for various dairy boards, Todd is well-versed in all things cheese and aims to introduce others to the world of funky cheeses.
Stinky cheeses, or rather washed-rind cheeses, as they are officially known, undergo a unique production process that sets them apart. The rinds of these cheeses are regularly washed with a brine, occasionally incorporating other liquids like wine or beer. This process not only prevents mold but also encourages the growth of specific bacteria, most notably Brevibacterium linens, responsible for the orange rind, distinct aroma, and funky taste of washed-rind cheeses.
The history of washed-rind cheeses traces back to the 7th century, offering a glimpse into their origins. Early cheese makers, like a Benedictine monk in the Alsace-Lorraine region, unintentionally stumbled upon the process while trying to ward off mold with alcohol or salt water washes. This serendipitous discovery led to the birth of stinky cheeses, marking the beginning of a long-standing tradition in cheese production.
The fifth time it molded, he had kept the cheese so moist with his cleaning that it encouraged different bacteria completely to grow on the outside of the cheese because of the moist environment. That had not happened before. And this young monk went to his boss and said, ‘Hey, boss. Come here…’ And the boss said, ‘Dude, you made it. You taste it.’ And the next thing you know, it’s all history after that.
If the monk hadn’t washed the mold off of this cheese, it would have become something more similar to a Brie, which is covered in white mold as it matures, but ends up with a much milder flavor than its washed-rind cousins. Although there are a wide variety of washed-rind cheeses — they’re not all soft, small wheels like an Époisses, which looks strikingly similar to a Brie, and some are quite hard such as Gruyère — this comparison does a good job of demonstrating how much funk and aroma bacteria can contribute.
Yes, you can eat the rind. Don’t let the word ‘bacteria’ scare you, the rinds of these stinky cheeses are absolutely fine to eat. While tasting a variety of Taleggio with ‘the cheese dude,’ Pizza Quest host Peter Reinhart exclaims that although the interior of the cheese is soft and flavorful, the rind ‘is on another level altogether.’ Todd says this is because ‘the super complex food chemistry going on, that rind is where it’s happening.’ For a firm washed-rind cheese like Gruyère, it may be physically harder to eat the rind because it’s hard, but you still can if you’d like. Consider this a friendly reminder that you can actually eat the rinds of most cheeses — just avoid any that are coated in wax or cloth. Of course, if you still don’t want to eat the rind on a stinky cheese, you can also trim it off — but both Todd and Reinhart say it would be a waste, especially if you want to taste the full flavor potential of a washed-rind cheese. Read the original article on Food & Wine.
