Cabbage possesses many qualities that are highly valued in Western culinary circles today. Not only is it nutritious and budget-friendly, but it is also seasonal, vibrant in color, resilient to various climates, and perfect for fermenting. Yet, despite these attributes, cabbage often struggles to earn the respect it deserves.
Alissa Timoshkina, author of the new cookbook “Kapusta: Vegetable-Forward Recipes from Eastern Europe,” believes that the key lies in how cabbage is prepared. She emphasizes that people tend to overcook it, preventing it from reaching its full potential. In her book, she celebrates cabbage as a staple ingredient in Eastern European cuisine, alongside other essentials like beetroot, potatoes, carrots, and mushrooms.
While cabbage has sometimes been associated with images of poverty and austerity, Timoshkina sees a shift towards broader appreciation, especially in the context of the growing focus on vegetable-centric, healthy eating. She notes a natural convergence between Eastern European culinary traditions, which hold these ingredients in high esteem, and Western trends that prioritize sustainability and climate responsibility.
Drawing on her own background growing up in a Ukrainian-Jewish family in Siberia, Timoshkina showcases a range of recipes that span various countries and ethnic groups in Eastern Europe. From savory pies to hearty stews to refreshing salads, her cookbook offers a diverse array of dishes that highlight the region’s culinary diversity and cultural heritage.
Among the standout dishes featured are traditional dumplings and stuffed cabbage, known as goÅ‚à¨bki, halupki, szĂ¡rma, and sarmale in different Eastern European countries. Timoshkina views dumplings as the ultimate comfort food, perfect for a leisurely weekend cooking project that can yield a satisfying meal to enjoy throughout the week. With ingredients like paprika, coriander, caraway, and dill, as well as a generous dollop of sour cream, the recipes in “Kapusta” capture the essence of Eastern European cooking while offering a taste of the region’s rich culinary traditions.
In her spare time, she just writes. To make these, prepare a large batch and then freeze them. “This dish is iconic, with each region of Eastern Europe having its unique version,” Timoshkina explains. “People across the region proudly claim their own versions of it.”
