From the archives: In September 1980, the renowned author Kingsley Amis penned an essay for Food & Wine titled “Scotch: The Water of Life.” While some details about the availability and popularity of Scotch may be dated, for historical significance, this story is presented in its original form.
The exact origins of Scotch remain a mystery. Legend has it that during his campaign in Ireland in 1170, Richard Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, observed the locals drinking whiskey as well as being confronted by his troops. This led to speculation that the Irish may have imparted the knowledge of distillation to the Scots over the centuries preceding the first documented mention of what would become Scotch. However, the question remains: did the Irish indeed share this expertise, or did the Scots learn from other sources like the English or the French? These theories lack concrete evidence, yet it’s curious that the Scots are not given due credit for their inventive nature throughout history.
Despite the uncertainties surrounding Scotch’s origins, historical records from the Scottish Exchequer Roll of 1494-1495 indicate a mention of malt being supplied to Friar John Cor for producing “aqua vitae,” or spirituous liquor. This term evolved into the Scottish Gaelic “uisgebeatha,” later shortened to whisky. The distilling process, passed down through generations, has been refined but remains fundamentally unchanged.
Scotch production begins with barley, which is malted by germinating it in water and halting the process through heating. The malt is ground and mixed with hot water to create a mash, from which the sugary liquid (wort) is extracted and fermented using yeast. Subsequent distillation separates the alcohol from the beer, resulting in the distinctive spirit that is Scotch whisky.
The alcohol, after being distilled and transformed into whisky, can easily be separated (in the form of vapor) from water and then condensed back into liquid. This distilled whisky is then transferred into oak casks along with some water, marking the beginning of the aging process. The entire journey from mashing the ingredients to distillation typically spans about a week.
Throughout each stage of production, various factors come into play that impact the whisky’s flavor. Firstly, the source of water plays a crucial role. Scotland’s diverse geology and climate have given rise to a landscape rich in water bodies with different chemical compositions. These disparities are so pronounced that even two distilleries in the Scottish Highlands, owned by the same family and following similar production techniques but using different water sources, produce distinctly different whiskies. When you expand this scenario across the expansive whisky-producing region of Scotland, stretching nearly 300 miles from north to south and close to 200 miles from west to east, the vast array of whisky flavors becomes evident, leading to the assertion that Scotch whiskies are as diverse as the wines of France.
The quality of barley used also influences the final product. The Scottish Highlands do not produce sufficient barley to meet the global demand for Scotch whisky, thus necessitating sourcing from the Lowlands, England, and even North America. Highland barley tends to have lower starch content, resulting in reduced alcohol yield but higher levels of proteins and other compounds that contribute to the whisky’s flavor profile. The peat utilized during kilning, the process that halts barley germination, imparts a distinctive smoky essence to the matured spirit, varying in intensity based on the type and quantity of peat used. For instance, Islay peat, known for its seaweed content, can be discerned in whiskies from that specific region.
The shape of the still, the heating method employed, and the cask type and size utilized for aging also play significant roles in shaping the whisky’s character. Despite the mystery surrounding why aging enhances whisky quality, one notable fact is that a fifteen-year-old Scotch retains the same ingredients and proportions as the initial raw spirit.
Certain aspects of whisky production are less enigmatic. The unique flavor profile and overall essence of a whisky largely hinge on the types and quantities of congeners present in it. These congeners, deemed impurities from a technical standpoint, mostly consist of complex “higher alcohols” beyond the primary constituent, ethyl alcohol. While distillers possess a degree of control over the congeners, the precise mechanisms by which these over 200 substances influence the whisky’s characteristics remain largely unknown.
In conclusion, the intricate and multi-faceted process of whisky production in Scotland encompasses a myriad of factors that collectively contribute to the unmatched diversity and quality of Scotch whiskies.
Originally, whisky was made using a pot still by Sir John and his successors. The pot still operates intermittently, with the chamber being cooled and cleaned after each batch. For over three centuries, all Scotch whisky was produced using a pot still. However, in 1831, Aeneas Coffey, a former Inspector-General of Irish Excise, patented a new type of continuous still known as the “patent still” or “Coffey still.” Although initially rejected by the Irish, the patent still found acceptance in Scotland, leading to a significant shift in global drinking habits.
The patent still is more efficient than the traditional pot still in two key ways. It produces a purer spirit with minimal impurities and operates at a much faster pace, around 40 times quicker and cheaper. Unlike the pot still, the patent still utilizes a combination of malt, unmalted barley, and grain such as maize or corn to create “grain whisky.” This distinct type of whisky is different from the “malt whisky” produced by the pot still.
In the 1850s, a creative individual discovered that blending the expensive malt whisky with the more affordable grain whisky produced a delightful result, leading to the popularity of blended Scotch whiskies like Johnnie Walker, Haig & Haig, Black & White, and Dewars. The taste of grain whisky is not commonly known as it is primarily used for blending, but those who have sampled it describe it as chemical and sharp rather than neutral like vodka.
The invention of the patent still and the art of blending significantly impacted the Scotch industry, leading to its widespread popularity. Scotch whiskey filled the void left by the devastation of French vineyards by phylloxera and the Prohibition era in the United States. The market for Scotch expanded dramatically after World War II, with exports reaching 113 million U.S. proof gallons in 1977. Today, Scotch holds the largest share of the global whisky market at 34.5%, while Irish whiskey only accounts for 0.8%.
The United States accounted for one-third of the Scotch exports from the UK, surpassing all other countries. There is a growing preference for malt whisky, with Londoners starting to offer it as an alternative to Cognac after meals. Many believe that a fine malt is equivalent to a fine brandy. While some find malts smooth, I personally prefer a bit of bite from the grain. To cater to my taste, I mix different malts and grains in a small barrel, combining a heavy, peaty malt like Laphroaig, a light, sweet malt like Glenmorangie, and a good blend like Teacher’s Highland Cream. Although some may disapprove of mixing, professional blenders do the same. While some people dilute Scotch with ice or mixers, I prefer mine with bottled water to appreciate its true flavors. I believe that spirits above 80 proof are too strong to be fully absorbed undiluted. I do enjoy cocktails like the Bloody Mary and Bourbon Old-Fashioned, but I find Scotch to be best enjoyed straight. However, I do have two Scotch-based concoctions that I enjoy – the Lemon Toddy and Atholl Brose. The Lemon Toddy is a comforting drink made with honey, lemon juice, and Scotch, while the Atholl Brose combines oatmeal juice, honey, and Scotch for a fortifying beverage. Remember that the Atholl Brose has nutritional value, so it’s best not to use it as an apéritif.
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