Creating oncom is a fascinating process that almost seems like magic. It begins with a heap of soy pulp wrapped in banana leaves and sprinkled with spores from a fungus known as Neurospora intermedia. This bundle is then left to ferment in a warm, moist environment for about a day and a half. The mold works its magic by breaking down the proteins, starch, and cellulose in the fibrous pulp, transforming it into a dish cherished by many in western Indonesia, as reported by Grist.
Chef-turned-bioengineer Vayu Hill-Maini expressed amazement at the transformation, stating, “In just 36 hours, this fungal growth truly changes what would otherwise be considered inedible.” In a recent publication in Nature Microbiology, the Stanford University assistant professor presented a compelling case for utilizing fungal fermentation of food waste and agricultural byproducts as the next frontier in culinary innovation.
For Hill-Maini, this endeavor goes beyond creating trendy dishes; it is about enhancing food sustainability and addressing global hunger. The traditional staple of oncom, widely consumed in parts of Indonesia, serves as an affordable and nutritious alternative to animal protein. Made by fermenting a mixture of old oncom with ingredients like soybean pulp, oncom is versatile in various dishes, resembling miso and tempeh.
Inspired by the prevalence of oncom in Southeast Asian cuisine, Hill-Maini, a former chef, delved into the science behind the dish, exploring how the fungus responsible for its creation could be embraced worldwide. While fermentation has been a culinary practice for centuries, Hill-Maini sees its potential in alleviating the food waste crisis, converting plant-based milk production leftovers into valuable and nutritious meals, thus reducing greenhouse gas emissions from the food system.
After three years of research on the growth capabilities of N. intermedia and its ability to transform industrial food processing waste into edible products, Hill-Maini and his team made significant discoveries. They found that the fungus thrived on various substrates, did not produce harmful mycotoxins, and yielded food products that repurposed waste without compromising taste. Hill-Maini emphasizes the industrial-scale potential of this process, envisioning it as a solution for large-scale food waste management.
“Research led by Hill-Maini focused on the byproducts generated during the production of plant-based dairy, produce, and brewing. Surprisingly, many of these inedible leftovers were found to be suitable for transformation into appealing products with diverse colors, textures, and flavors. This discovery could have significant environmental benefits, as each metric ton of wet waste upcycled through fermentation can prevent the release of approximately 600 kilograms of CO2 that would otherwise contribute to methane emissions from landfills.
Hill-Maini envisions incorporating fungal fermentation into food manufacturing processes, swiftly turning waste into valuable resources. One of the most exciting prospects lies in the potential climate advantages offered by N. intermedia. Hill-Maini envisions converting this waste into protein as a means to reduce reliance on animal consumption, leading to substantial positive impacts.
Encouraging consumer interest in foods made from waste in the U.S. will require a compelling narrative that extends beyond the conventional environmental appeal. Rick von Hagn, who has been experimenting with N. intermedia at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, believes that the taste and texture of these ancient cooking techniques could serve as strong selling points on their own. The farm-to-table restaurant in Tarrytown, New York, has begun incorporating fungus-fermented foods into select dishes, creating a unique culinary experience.
Von Hagn’s collaboration with Hill-Maini began in 2022, exploring the potential uses of kitchen waste for fermentation. This partnership led to the creation of various fermented foods, transforming leftovers like flaxseed oil press-cake into steak-like patties through the magic of fermentation. The versatility of N. intermedia has allowed chefs to enhance the texture and flavor of alternative protein dishes, revitalize stale bread, and create innovative culinary delights that resonate with customers.
The success of using N. intermedia in dishes has prompted the team at Blue Hill to establish a microbiology lab dedicated to exploring new fermentation possibilities and developing inventive recipes. This approach has unlocked a realm of culinary opportunities that extend beyond traditional applications in Indonesia.
Chefs like Matthew Kammerer at The Harbor House Inn in Elk, California, are enthusiastic about utilizing byproducts and unconventional ingredients to minimize food waste. Kammerer, who has not been directly involved in the research, appreciates the creativity and sustainability inherent in cooking with molds like koji. The culinary world’s embrace of such innovative practices signifies a growing interest in reducing waste and exploring new gastronomic horizons.”
Aspergillus oryzae, widely used in Japanese cuisine to ferment soybeans and produce soy sauce and miso, has been a prominent player in culinary circles in recent years. However, there is growing interest in exploring the gastronomic potential of Neosartorya intermedia, a less mainstream alternative. This Indonesian technique is not limited to fine-dining establishments in the U.S., as evidenced by collaborations between chefs and Michelin-starred restaurants around the world.
For instance, Hill-Maini is partnering with a Michelin-starred restaurant in San Sebastián, Spain, to develop alcoholic beverages using N. intermedia. Meanwhile, chefs at Alchemist, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark, have incorporated fungal enzymes from N. intermedia into a dessert, enhancing the sweetness and flavor of a sugarless rice custard.
Despite the culinary innovations stemming from this fungal strain, the primary obstacle remains the scarcity of sources for the spores necessary for cultivation in the U.S. In Java, the birthplace of oncom, leftovers from oncom production are utilized as seeds for cultivating a new batch of the alternative protein, akin to using a sourdough starter for bread-making. In California, Hill-Maini’s team relies on a lab sample of N. intermedia for their research efforts. To address this scarcity, Luzmore and von Hagn have invested in a microbiology lab, while Hill-Maini is constructing a kitchen alongside his Stanford laboratory.
One of the challenges hindering broader acceptance of this fungus in the culinary world is the perception of it as waste or mold. Hill-Maini acknowledges this obstacle, stating, “There’s a few things working against us. We’re talking about waste, we’re talking about mold. If you say ‘mold-fermented waste,’ I think people will be really turned off and disgusted.” Overcoming these perceptions may require the endorsement of fine-dining chefs to shift public attitudes.
It is worth noting that fermented foods and fungi-rich products, such as sourdough and blue cheese, have long been embraced in the U.S. food scene. Kombucha, a popular fermented drink with mold elements, has enjoyed widespread popularity in recent years, despite its ancient origins. Hill-Maini envisions a similar trajectory for N. intermedia, hoping it will gain widespread acceptance and appreciation.
The utilization of a food-waste-fighting fungus in kitchens and restaurants worldwide is not merely a futuristic concept, according to Hill-Maini—it’s a present reality. He emphasizes, “Look, this is happening in Indonesia. It’s happening in the U.S. in various ways. This is just a new way to look at it, towards planetary health.” Hill-Maini and his team view their efforts not as reinventing the wheel, but as introducing a beneficial force to promote planetary well-being, one discarded oat pulp or moldy loaf of bread at a time.
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