I stood atop a rocky pinnacle, waves crashing around me as grey clouds swirled overhead. Hours had passed since the boat had dropped me and my fellow hikers off to begin our trek around a remote Tasmanian peninsula. Normally, the approaching storm would have raised concerns, but the Three Capes Track is one of Australia’s “Great Walks,” offering expert guides, luxurious accommodation, and delicious food. As the first raindrops fell, I knew I would soon be cozy in a lodge with a crackling fire and hot meal.
The Three Capes Track, opened a decade ago, is located east of Hobart on the Tasman Peninsula. Originally explored by intrepid hikers from the Hobart Walkers Club in the 1960s, the track now provides stunning ocean views with Antarctica as the next landfall 2,500km away. Guided by the Tasmania Walking Company, our group of diverse hikers opted for the comfort of eco-lodges over camping.
As we set off from Stewart’s Bay jetty, our group ranging in age and background, we embarked on a short boat ride to Denman’s Cove. Guided by Josh, we marveled at the magnificent dolerite cliffs, the tallest in the southern hemisphere. Josh shared the history of the area, contrasting the penal colony of Port Arthur with the labor of love that built the walking track.
Our journey along the track was met with the roaring Southern Ocean below us. Passing by Surveyors Cove, the storm hastened our pace towards our hidden accommodation, Crescent Lodge. This low-impact, eco-friendly lodge surrounded by lush foliage offered a retreat from the elements, powered by solar and wind energy.
The lodge provided a touch of luxury, with the smell of fresh bread welcoming us inside its light-filled space. The combination of rugged wilderness and modern comforts made this guided hike along the Three Capes Track a truly memorable experience.
In a cozy common room adorned with cushioned benches and shelves filled with books on the local wildlife, the resident chef whipped up a delightful evening meal complemented by plenty of local pinot. The next morning, I found myself waking up in a wood-paneled bedroom before indulging in a hearty cooked breakfast. It was clear that this experience was taking my hiking adventures to the next level.
“It’s a big day ahead,” announced Josh, as he laid out the plan: a challenging five-hour trek up Arthur’s Peak, towering 300 meters above sea level. At the summit, we marveled at the dolerite cliffs that the peninsula is renowned for – a truly unique perspective as promised. Our journey proceeded over Ellarwey Ridge, a name stemming from a humorous encounter between members of the Hobart Walking Club, giving it the moniker “Where-the-hell-are-we Ridge.”
During our traverse, we passed through an official campsite, a reminder that luxury accommodations were not the sole option along our route. The ranger expressed concerns over the influx of hikers that day, despite the strict permit system in place to regulate numbers. Surprisingly, we had encountered no other walkers throughout our day’s journey.
As we trekked through various forests, we encountered diverse landscapes and breathtaking views. “At least we won’t have trouble finding space here,” remarked one of our companions, as we were guided, akin to Hansel and Gretel, to the Cape Pillar Lodge – our woodland sanctuary for the next two nights. Discussions of facials, massages, and the option of a leisurely walking day ahead hinted at the luxurious experience awaiting us, signaling a shift into a realm of hiking unlike any other.
With changing weather conditions on the horizon, some in the group opted for a relaxing morning at the spa within our cozy chalet. Meanwhile, I ventured forth along the trail, transitioning from coastal heath to towering Eucalyptus forests, ultimately reaching the Blade – a collection of imposing dolerite pillars that offered a panoramic view of Tasman Island to the south, evoking a sense of standing at the edge of the world.
Our final day led us through the rainforest, its trees adorned with lush ferns and mosses, culminating in our ascent to Mount Fortescue, the highest peak on the peninsula at 490 meters. Several of us took a detour to witness Cape Hauy, home to the striking landmarks of Totem Pole and Candlestick – dramatic sea stacks resembling an unfinished game of Jenga.
“I conquered those in my youth,” shared a member of our group, a 60-year-old man, with a hint of modesty. “We’re not all taking it easy on this trek; it’s just a more comfortable way to revisit these paths now that we’re not as sprightly.”
